Men's 1940's Fashion And Zoot Suit

There was an interesting feature of the Zoot Suit!  

men's suit with high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed, pegged trousers, and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders. This style of clothing became popular among the Mexican American, African American, Italian American, Filipino American, and, to a lesser extent, Irish American communities during the 1940s.^[2][3] In Britain the "Edwardian-look" suits with velvet lapels worn by Teddy Boys are said to be a derivative of the zoot suit.^[4]

Did you know that there was Zoot Suit Riots?  Yes, Riots

over who wore Zoot Suits!  This was more about race relations

than fashion.  Because of the L-73 restriction,Mexican-American

youths who wore these oversized suits were considered unpatriotic

and draft dodgers.  Tensions rose in Los Angeles when thousands

of military men on leave poured into the area and clashes

occurred between white servicemen and civilian youth of all

colors.  Hence: the Zoot Suit riot!  

Here is a two piece Palm Beach style suit with

yellow silk necktie.  This type of clothing became

beloved among American men in 1930-40's.  The suits

were comfort and casual.  Rather than hiding the natural

lines of the body, the new athletic style conformed and

flattered the male shape.

Of course, we have here the Army Uniform:

President Eisenhower wore this iconic jacket.  This

version was very similar to the WAC's uniform, 

which men like due to the comfortable and stylish jacket.

This jacket style is being worn now by the US Border

Patrol and National Park Service.

We just have to mention the WAVES suit, 

which combined naval uniform traditions with

restrained feminine style.  The suit is well-known for it's rounded collars above pointed lapels and adapted square knot Navy tie.  Discharged WAVES continued to wear their uniforms

after the war.  They could remove insignias and modify the buttons

to be worn as business suits.

Women became essential to building ships, bombs, aircraft.

Here is Bell Aircraft coveralls, worn by Evelyn Delong Paris, as she

worked on B-29s.

Bravo Women!!

Bare Necessary.............1940 Style

 Okay, we continue on our journey through 1940's fashions, thanks to exhibit at Pacific War Museum. Fredericksburg, Texas.   This exhibit opened the door to a world that I didn't really know--I'm a WWII baby.  My dad was stationed with US Army in France--what he did, we are not sure and he never spoke of his service after his return.

Did you ever wear stockings?--Nylons, as they were called during the early part of 1940.

Hemlines rose due to the material shortage making hosiery essential.  The only stockings

available before 1940 were either cotton (too thick), saggy rayon or

expensive silk, which ripped easily.  Some gals either took to 'hosiery cream',

which provided an illusion of stockings or Some even took to using black

eyeliner to draw a seam down the back of their leg--seamed hosiery

was the rage.

Then on the market--nylon stockings appeared!  As soon

as they hit the stores, they vanished from the shelves.

After the bombing of Pearl Harbor, the new material went

to military uses--in parachutes, aircraft fuel tanks, shoelaces,

mosquito netting.  Nylon became 'the fiber that won the war'

That led to another situation:

Nylon Riots!

Silk Chiffon Wedding dress, worn by Marjorie Brown on her

wedding day to Sgt. Denton Trautman

Silk!  no less

Such lovely design--my mother wore a silk satin wedding dress--

I remember when I was 5 or 6 wearing that dress while

I played around the house!  how could she let me wear such

a creation??!!

Here you have a Rayon crepe maternity dress:

L-85 exemption, which limited fabric yardage, did allow for

these exemptions: 

children below five

burial clothing

religious garments

wedding gowns

maternity dresses

These allowances showed that the American government had a 

commitment to protect core national values such as family and religion.

There is so much more to this exhibit--I wish you could walk through

this era as I did and experience the life style of the those who

sacrificed so much for our freedom

DIY of 1940's Fashions

You think we, as 21st century people, created DIY--nope!  This concept of do-it-yourself was created as a desire to support the troops and provided an surge in 1940's garment making.  In 1942, sewing pattern sales rose 40-50% over the depression years.  By the end of the war, the number of female home sewers nearly doubled!

We continue our tour of the 1940's fashion exhibit presented by
Pacific War Museum located in Fredericksburg, Texas

"Help fight the war with scissors, needle and thread!"

Sheath dress made from linen table cloth--

conservation advice promoted cutting down existing

materials and remaking them into new practical wearables.

This table cloth dress headed the advertisement

"Use it up, wear it out, make it do--or do without!"

This is evening gown with bolero jacket, sewn by Edith Dyer

Edith was married to Navy expert cyptanalyst, who was

stationed in Pearl Harbor during the war.

She made this ensemble to wear to dances and social events

held at the Officer's club.

Tailored black wool dress going away suit,

sewn by Mrs. J. G. Keyes, who used a Vogue Couturier pattern

as her going away dress when she married in 1940

Many brides wore going away suits after the wedding ceremony;

in some cases the suit served as the wedding dress for those wishing

to satisfy wartime restrictions.

Another example of a 'going-away' dress

Here's a booklet on Make and Mend for Victory

that was used for Alterations, Make Over, Accessories--

practical knowledge for those home sewers

Another example Of DIY--this nylon night gown

Through nylon disappeared on the home front, this 

scarce luxury item could still be found among military personnel--

In parachutes!

Not only were there home sewers, but knitters who wanted

to be of service to the military.  In the above photo, you will

see, lower left corner, the Vogue pattern that was used

to make the going away suit in the above photo.

This half knitted sweater, in colors suitable for military

was "Bundles for Britain", a small knitting

circle, led by New Yorker Natalie Wales Latham.  This

organization expanded to a number of branches and sent thousands

of sweaters, socks, scarves and caps across the Atlantic.

Here is the pattern "Man's sleeveless sweater--V-neck"

"Takes 2 hanks--Khaki color, 2 prs. #6 needles, #4 needles to be

used only for 3" ribbing at the bottom of the sweater"

You can find 1940's knitting patterns here

Fashions of 1940's

I have a renewed interest in WWII and 1940's fashion styles.

I've taken to watching "Bomb Girls" on Netflix--I must tell you

this is fascinating for me--so much I didn't think about during

1940's.

In the small town of Fredericksburg, Texas (which is our second home) there is a fabulous

museum--National Museum of the Pacific War.  This past weekend we watched a

battle re-enactment of one of the battles--it's a sight to be seen and recognized!

Anyway, back to the Museum--there is a free exhibit of 1940's fashions--another

eye opening exhibit of what folks endured during those harsh times.

This dress is a patriotic fashion--Blue polka dot dress with red belt,

simply dressed demonstrated the wearer's duty to wartime conservation

To wear patriotic colors, like blue and red, further embodied American values

This is a two piece blue wool suit, called Victory Suit, represented

sacrifice and duty.  The slender fitted suit conserved materials by forgoing pleats 

and patch pockets.  There was some style in the design details.

The Victory Suit dominated the 1940's American fashion scene that

they came to be viewed as civilian uniforms

What were the limitations on fashions?  The orders were L-85:  L referred to 

civilian production; 85 applied to women and children and

L-73 was designed for men's garments.

L-85/73, issued in 1942,  grew out of a pact between the government and the American

fashion industry.  This law controlled the amount of material used in civilian clothing.

It mandated maximum measurements and outlawed excess pleats and even cuffs.

With this law outlawing major design changes, it encouraged maintaining the 1930's trim and 

narrow figures.

There were several other restrictions too: 

L-90--reduced elastic for girdles, bras--so much outcry, the restriction

deemed undergarments essential!

L-119 restricted fabric in sleepwear

K-171 restricted cosmetic lines due to ingredients

L-217 restricted leather for shoes:  it dicated six colors for women's

shoes and only two colors could be used in each shoe

Come back tomorrow for more on 1940's fashions

Patriotic Wool Blog Hop

As usual, I'm a tad late to the party, but I can play catch-up quickly--there is a patriotic wool blog hop happening now--it's called Summer blog hop and in some places of the world, it seems like summer already!  Here we go!

First block from Farmhouse Threads, which was posted on March 10

Second block posted on March 17

Every Friday there will be another FREE block posted.

Each blogger has kits available too--a real bonus!

March 10- Rhonda McCray, Farmhouse Threads

http://farmhousethreads.com/

March 17- Shawn York, Rusty Crow Quilt Shop

http://shawn-rustycrow.blogspot.com/

March 24- Lisa Bongean, Primitive Gatherings

http://lisabongean.com/

March 31– Jeni Gaston, Woolen Willow Designs

http://jenifromthewillow.blogspot.com/

April 7- Debbie Busby, Wooden Spool Designs

http://woodenspooldesigns.blogspot.com/

April 14- Joyce Weeks, Geoff’s Mom Pattern Co.

http://geoffsmom.blogspot.com

April 21- Kathi Campbell, Heart to Hand

http://www.hearttohand.com/

April 28- Linda and Donna, My Red Door Designs

http://myreddoordesignsblog.blogspot.com

May 5- Joan Grenke, Bits and Pieces by Joan

http://bitsandpiecesbyjoan.com/

May 12- Gloria,Vicky and Heather, Olde Green Cupboard Designs

http://oldegreencupboard.blogspot.com/

May 19- Laural Arestad, Simply Put Plus

http://simplyputplus.blogspot.com/

May 26- Kathi and Taylor, The Cottage at Cardiff Farms

http://thecottageatcardifffarms.com/blog

June 2 – Finishing Instructions from Farmhouse Threads

http://farmhousethreads.com/

St. Patrick Day

Do you have the luck of the Irish?  Are you wearing green today?

• Corned beef and cabbage is a traditional St. Patrick’s Day dish. In 2009, roughly 26.1 billion pounds of beef and 2.3 billion pounds of cabbage were produced in the United States.
• Irish soda bread gets its name and distinctive character from the use of baking soda rather than yeast as a leavening agent.
• Lime green chrysanthemums are often requested for St. Patrick’s Day parades and celebrations.

Saint Patrick's Day, or the Feast of Saint Patrick (Irish: Lá Fhéile Pádraig, "the Day of the Festival of Patrick"), is a cultural and religious celebration held on 17 March, the traditional death date of Saint Patrick (c. AD 385–461), the foremost patron saint of Ireland.

Saint Patrick's Day was made an official Christian feast day in the early 17th century and is observed by the Catholic Church, the Anglican Communion (especially the Church of Ireland),^[4] the Eastern Orthodox Church, and the Lutheran Church. The day commemorates Saint Patrick and the arrival of Christianity in Ireland,^[3]and celebrates the heritage and culture of the Irish in general.^[5] Celebrations generally involve public parades and festivals, céilithe, and the wearing of green attire or shamrocks.^[6] Christians also attend church services^[5][7] and the Lenten restrictions on eating and drinking alcohol are lifted for the day, which has encouraged and propagated the holiday's tradition of alcohol consumption.^[5][6][8][9]

Saint Patrick's Day is a public holiday in the Republic of Ireland,^[10] Northern Ireland,^[11] the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador, and the British Overseas Territory of Montserrat. It is also widely celebrated by the Irish diaspora around the world, especially in Great Britain, Canada, the United States, Argentina, Australia, and New Zealand. Saint Patrick's Day is celebrated in more countries than any other national festival.^[12] Modern celebrations have been greatly influenced by those of the Irish diaspora, particularly those that developed in North America. In recent years, there has been criticism of Saint Patrick's Day celebrations for having become too commercialized and for fostering negative stereotypes of the Irish.

Hands2Help--Challenge!

Confessions of a Fabric Addict for the 7th year is sponsoring

this charity quilt challenge.  Here is the number of quilts that have been

donated in years past

2011:  47 quilters made 60 quilts

2012:  55 quilters made 94 quilts

2013:  65 quilters made 127 quilts

2014:  70 quilters made 145 quilts
2015:  67 quilters made 147 quilts
2016:  104 quilters made 194 quilts

Charity #1 - International Institute St. Louis

With all that has been in the news recently regarding refugees, there has been a lot of interest in making quilts for a refugee resettlement group.  A tip from a blog reader led me to the International Institute St. Louis.  The following is from their website...

Charity #2 - Happy Chemo!

Once again, Emily of Em's Scrap Bag will be collecting quilts to be donated to people undergoing chemotherapy.  This has been a favorite charity for the Challenge since the second year, and a whole lot of love and comfort has gone to them in the form of quilts over the past five years.  Emily accepts quilts of all sizes, from 48" square to twin size (approximately 65" x 88").  

Charity #3 - Camp Hobe via Stash Builder Box

Stash Builder Box is the brainchild of Amanda Kelly, and has a unique purpose (beyond building up your stash!)  Yes, you receive a great box of fabric and goodies each month, but in addition, 20% of the cost of your box goes to provide quilts for specific children's charities.  The charities change each three months, spreading the love around.  Amanda coordinates a team of HeartBuilders who take the supplies she sends and turns them into beautiful tops and finished quilts.  

She also accepts donations of completed quilts, so this year as part of the Hands2Help Challenge, you can choose to make quilts for this quarter's charity, which is Camp Hobe, a special summer camp experience for children currently being treated for cancer and their siblings.  Their mission is to create an atmosphere that enhances self-esteem, fosters independence and friendships, and creates a sense of belonging.

Your quilts for Camp Hobe should be at least 45" x 60" and geared towards children ages six and older.

Initial signups will be Sunday March 12th through Saturday, March 18th.  You will receive one entry for signing up, and can get additional entries for putting the button on your blog 

check out the website for further information on prizes, tutorials, other.